Copper garden torches

Copper garden torches DEFAULT

Introduction: HomeMade Modern DIY Copper Tiki Torches

These copper tiki torches are one of my favorite outdoor DIY projects. They're modern, clean-looking and are easy to make. I made them two different ways and anchored them with concrete footing made of Quikrete Fast-Setting concrete mix. I exposed the copper pieces together for the first version, which is really easy. For the second one, I tried soldering the pieces. This was the first time I soldered copper and it was definatly a learning experience. Copper is one of my favorite materials, but can be a bit pricey.

Step 1: Supplies + Tools

1/2" Copper Pipe (5’ length)

I used a 5’ length of type M copper pipe to use as a pole for mounting the torches.

1" Copper Pipe (8" length)

I used 8” of 1” copper pipe for each torch.

1" to 1/2" Reducers

I used 2 of these 1" to 1/2" copper reducers for each end of the torches.

1/2" Copper Plug

I used one of these plugs to create a stop inside the bottom reducer in the torches.

1/2" to 3/8" Copper Reducer

This reducer holds the wick in place.

1" PVC Pipe

I used a short length of PVC pipe to create a socket for the copper poles.

Quikrete Fast-Setting Concrete Mix

This mix is by far the easiest I've found to make foundations for outdoor projects. You don’t even need to mix it. All you need to do is dig a hole, pour it in and add water.

3/4" Gravel

I used 3 inches of gravel in the bottom of the hole I dug for the foundation.

Tiki Torch Wick

I took the wick out of an old tiki torch at my parents' house.

Fuel

I used citronella fuel for my tiki torches since it keeps bugs away.

Steel Wool

I used steel wool to polish the copper torches.

Gorilla 2-Part Epoxy

If you don’t feel comfortable soldering, then I recommend using this 2-part epoxy.

Rigid Tube Cutter

I used a rigid tube cutter to cut the copper pipes.

Blow Torch

This basic plumbers torch kit was intimdating at first, but actually inexpensive and easy-to-use.

Step 2: ​Cut the Copper Pipe

I cut a 8" piece of the 1" diameter copper tubing using my rigid tube cutter.

Step 3: ​Pound the Plug Into the Reducer

I pounded the 1/2" plug into the 1" side of the 1" to 1/2" reducer. I used a piece of dowel and a hammer to do this. I wanted the plug to stick in just enough for it to hold while I used epoxy to seal it. If you hammer it in too far, you won't be able to put the 1/2" copper pipe into the 1/2" side of the reducer.

Step 4: ​Prepare the Copper

I polished the 1" diameter piece of pipe using steel wool. I then used 60 grit sand paper to rough up the ends so that the epoxy could grip to the copper.

Step 5: ​Mix + Apply the Epoxy

I mixed the 2-part epoxy and applied it to the inside of the 1" side of the reducer to seal the 1/2" plug. I then glued in the 1" pipe, the top reducer and the 1/2" copper pipe before using a clean rag to wipe off any extra epoxy.

Step 6: ​Dig a Hole

I used a post hole digger to dig an 18" deep hole.

Step 7: ​Pour 3" of Gravel

I poured 3" of gravel into the hole and packed it down with a piece of 2x4.

Step 8: ​Pour in the Quikrete Fast-Setting Concrete Mix

I poured the concrete mix directly into the hole.

Step 9: ​Set the PVC Pipe

I used the PVC pipe as a socket for receiving the copper pipe. I normally would use a PVC cap, but I forgot to get one so I used duct tape to close one end of the PVC pipe. I pounded the pipe into place and used a level to adjust it until it was perfectly vertical.

Step 10: ​Add Water

My favorite thing about this mix is that you don’t have to mix it! I just added water, walked away, came back in 4 hours and it was hard enough for me to cut the extra pipe off.

Step 11: ​Install the Torch

I wrapped some rubber bands around the copper torch and stuck it into the PVC pipe. The rubber bands make the fit nice and snug.

Step 12: ​Fill the Torch + Light

I used a funnel to fill the torch with fuel, slid the 1/2" to 3/8" reducer over the wick and then inserted it into the torch. The wick needed a few minutes to soak up fuel, but lit up nice and bright the first time. I was worried that the heat would melt the epoxy, but was surprised to find that the copper didn’t get that hot. I let it burn for an hour and it was fine. I took a reducer and another 1/2" plug to create a cap for snuffing out the flame and protecting the torch from rain.

Step 13: Optional

Gluing the pipes together with epoxy is easy, but I've been wanting to learn how to sweat copper for quite a while, so I bought a soldering kit from the Home Depot and made a second torch.I used special brushes to scratch up the copper pipes and fittings before applying flux and connecting the joints.

Then, I heated up the joints with a propane torch and applied the solder, which melted into the hot copper joints. It took a while to get the hang of it and my second joint was a lot cleaner looking than the first.

I tested each joint with water to make sure that my torch would not leak fuel.

I'll be posting more tips and instructions for soldering when I get a little more experience.

Step 14: Done!

Good luck making your own coffee pot upgrade and please email or tweet photos to @benuyeda or [email protected] For more DIY ideas and projects, visit us at HomeMade Modern.

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How to build copper patio torches

URL:
http://www.gardengatemagazine.com/articles/projects/all/copper-patio-torch/

By: Garden Gate staff

A great patio torch does a lot of work. It looks good, sheds light on your outdoor space and keeps pesky bugs away. And now you can have a set of copper patio torches without burning cash! At your local hardware store, pick up the items in the materials list below along with a medium-grit abrasive pad and a pipe cutter. (Be sure it can cut through pipe more than 1 inch in diameter). Then, click through the slideshow at the end for step-by-step instructions for illuminating your garden with your own handiwork!

Related Post: Best Outdoor Fire Pits

See also Projects

copper-torches-supplies: The pipe (mounting post), air chamber (oil reservoir), reducers (base/cap), bushing (wick holder) and wicks are shown here.

Materials & Tools

  • 5 ft. of ½-in. pipe (mounting post)
  • 2   1-in. to ½-in. reducers (base/cap)
  • ½ in. × 14 in. air chamber (oil reservoir)
  • ½ in. × ⅜ in. bushing (wick holder)
  • Replacement torch wicks
  • Epoxy
  • Water-based polyurethane spray
  • Patio torch oil
  • Medium-grit abrasive pad
  • Pipe cutter
| 1 of 7

Create the oil reservoir

In order for the torch to burn for long periods, you need to have an supply of oil available to the wick. To make the 12-in.-long oil reservoir, cut off the open end of the air chamber. Just cinch down the length of pipe, like we did in the photo, and rotate the cutter.

| 2 of 7

Add a shiny, brushed look

If you’d like, add a brushed, shiny look to the oil reservoir (and other parts of the pipe) by rubbing a medium-grit abrasive pad across the copper surface. Then wipe away any residue with a clean cloth.

| 3 of 7

Mount the oil reservoir on the post

For the mounting post, we just used a 5-ft. length of ½-in. copper pipe, but yours can be any length you like. Connect the oil reservoir to the post with a reducer. Spread a small amount of epoxy inside the reducer, just like we did here, and then slip it on the post as a base that will hold the oil reservoir.

| 4 of 7

Protect the copper finish

Preserve the copper’s sheen by spraying a few coats of clear water-based polyurethane over the torch. Make sure it’s rated for outdoor use and has dried fully before continuing to the next step.

You can also leave it bare, and the copper will age, forming a patina.

| 5 of 7

Add the cap and the wick

Make a cap for the oil reservoir using another reducer, but slip this one on without any epoxy so it’s easy to remove when you need to refill oil.

Slide the wick through the bushing so only ¼ to ½ in. of it is exposed. The bushing acts as a wick holder, keeping the right length of wick ready to light.

| 6 of 7

Fill the reservoir with oil

Here you can see how easy it is to lift off the cap and pour oil into the reservoir. Make sure there’s enough to saturate the wick before replacing the cap.

| 7 of 7

Kick back and enjoy!

Push your torches into the ground throughout your garden or around your patio, light them and relax. It’s time to enjoy your handiwork!

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Published: Oct. 15, 2018


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Anywhere Tall Hammered Copper Garden Torch, 4 Torches

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Orders of $49 and more:
You pay no shipping fees (UPS or FedEx ground) to anywhere in the continental United States. Nice!

*There are a few exceptions, though:

  • Special order, oversized and heavy items may need to be shipped by freight, and a freight shipping surcharge may be applied.
  • Also, some manufacturers require that we add a shipping surcharge to their products. When this is the case, you will see the shipping or freight charge listed on the product page.

Orders less than $49:
Orders that do not meet the $49 threshold are charged a $12.99 flat rate shipping fee.

There are a few exceptions, though:

Hawaii, Alaska & Puerto Rico
If you are shipping to Hawaii, Alaska or Puerto Rico, Lumens offers discounted standard shipping by UPS or FedEx standard shipping. The actual shipping charge (which at minimum is $24) will be calculated during checkout and is based on the order total.

Canada
When shipping to Canada, Lumens only uses Expedited and Express Saver which includes the brokerage fees in the shipping charge. All taxes and customs duties are listed at checkout and collected along with your order payment. Freight shipping may be required for heavy or oversized items, which includes large lighting fixtures and furniture. Freight shipping takes 7-10 business days, in addition to any lead time stated on the product page. All pricing displayed across the site is in US Dollars.

NOTE: Some manufacturers may require additional lead time for shipments to Canada. You'll receive an email with your expected shipping time frame if this is the case with your order.

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DIY Copper Tiki Torches anchored with Fast Setting Concrete

Anywhere Tall Hammered Copper Garden Torch, 4 Torches

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