Stock Mount Coil-Over Systems
Dialing in that perfect stance has never been easier. QA1's Pro Coil systems provide both ride height and valving adjustment. Whether you spend time cruising or racing, we have a solution that's just right for you.
Our coil-over shocks are a great option for anyone looking for fully adjustable ride height and valving control.
- On-the-car adjustable valving makes it easy to dial in your desired level of comfort and performance.
- Adjustable shocks have 18 clicks of compression and rebound adjustment.
- Easy, bolt-in installation with stock control arms or QA1 tubular control arms.
- 100% dyno tested and serialized.
- Made in the USA.
This Product is eligible for a FREE Limited Lifetime Warranty. Learn more HERE.
Which shock is right for me?
Cruising - Non-Adjustable
Handling - Single Adjustable
Casual Drag Racing - Single Adjustable "R" Series (front only; not intended for street use)
Autocross and Drag Race - Double Adjustable
Pro-Touring and Drag Race - MOD Series (front only)
Which spring rate do I need?
Your ideal spring rates are determined based on vehicle weight, which should take into account any modifications that have been made. One step softer or firmer than the recommended street spring rate can be considered, depending on the purpose of the car (softer for drag racing, firmer for autocross, etc.). See our article Calculating Spring Rate for QA1 Stock Mount Coil-Over Systems to determine your ideal spring rate.
Tech Time: 1965-79 F-100 | QA1 Front Suspension Install
QA1, THE ALPHANUMERIC CODE FOR ONE OF the industry’s top suspension, rod ends, spherical bearings and shock absorber companies, was founded in 1993 by Jim Jordan in Lakeville, Minnesota.
When you think QA1, you think high quality, and that makes perfect sense as quality is the top priority in everything the company does. Its products are designed, built and tested to ensure consistent quality, ultimate reliability and unbeatable performance.
When QA1 started to develop the suspension for our beloved Ford F-100 trucks, the company did it the right way, from the ground up—fitting the suspension to the truck instead of fitting the truck to a suspension. Engineers designed the kit around the factory wheel wells and firewall, making certain each and every part fit just right for both form and function. You can now get wheels with some good offset to fill the gaps properly, and a wide variety of brake system upgrades are available.
Ditch that outdated twin I-beam front suspension. Before you head to the junkyard to find a random “front-clip,” you definitely should consider this well-engineered example of a dialed-in IFS offering both performance and comfort that’s properly engineered to make your truck handle like a modern truck while giving you the ride height adjustability so you can dial in the perfect stance. This setup also makes motor swaps a breeze as they have interchangeable engine mounts from FE, Windsor, Mod/Coyote and even LS (we all know one or two of those guys).
Here’s a good look at the engineering QA1 F-100 front suspension.
Some key points for this QA1 front setup:
• 3.75 inches narrower than a Crown Vic, so fitment of larger wheels and tires is not an issue
• 3- to 7-inch drop (3- to 5-inch with standard height style spindles, 5- to 7-inch with 2-inch drop spindles)
• 150+ pounds lighter than stock suspension
• Bolt-in tubular design for ease of installation and strength
• Adjustable coilover shocks to set the ride height and ride quality
• Rack-and-pinion steering
This article is not a step-by-step installation but rather a highlight of the QA1 front suspension as the guys at QA1 have a great instruction manual. (Go check it out by visiting www.QA1.net/ F100)
The pallet of QA1 goodness delivered to Evolutionary Rides and posted up next to Oscar the guinea pig. Although this is no experiment because we know exactly what kind of quality and performance we can expect to see when Oscar hits the road again!
To make it easy since our project still has a way to go, we separated the body from the rolling chassis.
Our stock rolling chassis was just begging for some upgrades!
Joey at Evolutionary Rides wasted no time and got to work removing the factory front suspension.
TIP: Before removing the factory suspension and cutting anything, we tacked in a few braces to keep everything square.
There were a whole lot of rivets that needed to be cut. We also cut out and removed some old crossmembers and parts from the chassis to help clean everything up.
They braced Oscar’s bare frame and removed all of the suspension and extra crossmembers that wouldn’t be used. (Then we actually sent our chassis to be media blasted since it had seen quite a bit of weathering through the years.)
Next, they marked and drilled the new holes for the QA1 supplied lower crossmember to go into place.
The QA1 lower crossmember was installed following the provided guides and instruction manual. (Make sure to use the manual and contact tech support for any questions as the QA1 staff is full of seasoned veterans who are able to help with anything you may run into along the way.)
A notch is marked and cut out for the upper crossmember to go into place.
Next up, the upper crossmember and controls arms and coilovers were installed.
Joey double checked everything and installed the spindle. (Note: As we’re a ways off on buttoning up this build before she sees the road again, everything is only hand tightened and will be properly torqued to spec as we get closer to final installation).
Quite an improvement over that ol’ rusty and archaic twin I-beam setup, eh?
The QA1 tie rods and power rack were bolted up next.
The supplied front sway bar is installed and we get to stand back and take in this gorgeous IFS setup in all its glory from every angle.
Handling Suspension Kits
Want better handling and cornering ability? Turn to QA1's handling suspension kits for the best ride that fits your needs. Available in three different levels of performance, these handling kits offer easy, bolt-in installation and seamlessly work with whatever OE component each piece attaches to.
These kits include spring rates carefully selected to maximize performance while maintaining a smooth, comfortable ride. They are geared towards average weight small block and LS powered vehicles with stock trim. Our level three handling kits offer stiffer springs to maximize cornering performance.
- Each component is hand-selected to ensure compatibility and optimal performance.
- Most applications utilize our coil-over shocks, providing superior performance and ride height adjustability.
- Replace old, worn-out stamped steel components with high-strength tubular components.
- Buy all at once, or build in stages.
- Easy, bolt-in installation.
- Made in the USA.
Don't want to make the investment right away? No problem. You can build your car in stages, using our parts list as a road map to get to the level of performance you want and have the peace of mind knowing you won't have compatibility issues.
QA1 MOPAR SUSPENSION
COIL-OVER CONVERSION SYSTEMS
THE ULTIMATE MOPAR SUSPENSION UPGRADE
Transform your classic Charger, Challenger, Dart or other classic Mopar into a restomod that drives, corners and launches like a modern machine.
Great-looking powder coated components improve performance and save weight while making it easy to swap engines, including Gen 3 Hemis. Coil-overs help you achieve the perfect stance and ride quality. Rack-and-pinion steering provides a modern feel and improved handling in any setting.
Building on a long legacy of great engineering, service and quality, our Gerst-designed systems instantly upgrade to every aspect of your classic Dodge, Chrysler or Plymouth.
Systems are made in the USA and the shocks are eligible for a Limited Lifetime Warranty.
MOPAR FRONT COIL-OVER KIT
- Available for A, B and E Body chassis, including models like classic Barracuda, Demon, Road Runner and Coronet cars and more
- Drastically improve geometry, enhancing driving feel and cornering capabilities
- Designed for everyday driving, drag racing and handling
- Tubular design improves exhaust clearance while reducing weight by 150 pounds
- Works with multiple engine configurations, including Gen 3 Hemis
- Made in the USA
MOPAR REAR COIL-OVER KIT
- Available for A, B and E Body chassis, including models like the Challenger, Dart, Scamp, Duster, Charger, Scamp and more
- Proven triangulated 4 link design is popular for street/strip machines and pro-touring/road race cars
- Improve traction during launch
- Gain greater anti-squat and pinion angle adjustability
- Correct your wheelbase to fit larger wheels and tires
- Offers clearance for 3” over the axle exhaust systems
- Made in the USA
DODGE TRUCK COIL-OVER KIT
- Available for ’61–’71 D100 and D200 trucks
- Adjustable coil overs provide a perfect lowered stance with 3” to 6” of drop
- 100% bolt-in design requires no welding or cutting
- Adjustable shock valving allows for ideal ride quality and performance
- Modern geometry and rack-and-pinion steering significantly improve drivability
- Upgraded stopping power with several Wilwood brake kit options
- Made in the USA
TORSION BAR FULL-VEHICLE KITS
Our bolt-in suspension kits tailor the performance and ride to your needs. Available in different levels, these kits maximize factory mounting points to offer easy installation while improving performance over stock. Don’t want to update everything at once? No problem. Use our parts list as a road map to build your car in stages without worrying about future compatibility issues.
Get the most out of your stock torsion bars by with tubular components, low-friction ball joints and poly bushings that improve drivability, ride quality and handling. Choose from three levels to suit your needs.
SEE HANDLING KITS
DRAG RACING KITS
Improve every run by reducing front-end friction and tuning weight transfer with single- or double-adjustable stock-mounted shocks. You’ll get off the line faster and gain more straight-line stability.
SEE DRAG KITS
WHICH FRONT SUSPENSION IS RIGHT FOR ME?
QA1's bolt-in torsion bar kits maximize OE Dodge, Chrysler and Plymouth suspension mounts to improve driving and performance characteristics. Front coil-over conversion systems are the ultimate handling and drag racing option if you want to push your classic Mopar to the limit.
WHICH REAR SUSPENSION IS RIGHT FOR ME?
Leaf spring rear suspensions offer a solid starting point, but coil-over conversions greatly enhance flexibility and performance capabilities. They totally transform the handling and drivability of classic Mopars.
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Front suspension qa1
How to Install C10 Front Suspension Systems
1963-1987 C10 Front Suspension Install
If you own an old Chevy or GMC truck, you know that it rides like an old truck. We want to show you how to upgrade the front suspension on your 1963-1987 C10 to modern tubular suspension with coil-overs. This suspension will drastically change the ride quality of your truck. Another bonus of the coil-overs besides the improved ride the valving gives you is the ability to easily adjust the ride height to your exact preference.
Watch as we complete the front end swap on the floor with basic hand tools, just like you’d be doing at home. The kit comes with a front sway bar, tubular upper and lower control arms and a coil-over shock and bracket.
Remember, this is video 1 of 3, discussing the front suspension only. We are going to be upgrading the rear suspension as well!
Removing the Old Components
The process of uninstallation is fairly straightforward. We started by jacking the front end up and removing the front wheels. Now this suspension is a really basic dual A-Arm type suspension and with the shocks remote mounted it’s almost easier to disassemble than other suspension.
We started disassembling the suspension by removing the tie rods from the spindle. Since we were going to upgrade to disc brakes as well, we went ahead and disconnected the brake lines along with the shocks. We also removed the sway bar from the control arms and frame.
The next step was to remove the spindle and coil springs. We started by removing the cotter pins and backing the castle nuts halfway off. With the coil spring keeping pressure, we smacked the spindle at the ball joints with a sledge hammer to break them loose from the spindle. With both broken loose, we put a floor jack under the lower arm to hold some pressure while we removed the spindle.
Then we lowered the lower control arm and removed the coil spring – be careful here, as these can be under a lot of tension and can pop out, causing harm.
Both control arms will need to be unbolted and removed. The top is held in with two bolts while the bottom is held in with two U-bolts.
The last part of this step requires removing a few rivets and cutting a hole for the coil-over to pass through. Don’t worry, we show you a few techniques to make this easy.
On top of the coil spring pocket is an “L”-shaped bracket. This bracket joins the crossmember to the frame and has to be removed in order to install the coil-over shocks. On the vertical frame side, there are four bolts that hold it to the frame. On the horizontal crossmember side, there are four rivets that have to be removed.
You can remove the rivets however it is easiest for you. We took a die grinder with a cut-off wheel, cut an “X” into the top, and popped the top off before driving them out. One thing to note here is that grease and dirt love to sit on this bracket, and you might not see these rivets. Clean out this bracket and you will see them.
Once you have this bracket out of the way, the very last step is to cut a hole in the crossmember for the coil-over to come through.
In order to get the hole, we set the new bracket in place and traced out the hole. We used a torch to cut, but you could use a drill, die grinder, plasma cutter, etc. – whatever is available and works best for you.
Our very first step was to get the coil-over bracket bolted in place. One thing to note is these are left and right specific, so be sure to have the correct one on each side. Remember too that these are old trucks that saw lots of miles and weren’t perfect from the factory. It’s very possible that when bolting in this bracket you’ll have to run a drill through some of the holes due to misalignment. This is normal and not a concern.
Before bolting in the lower control arms, take a careful look at the saddles that the cross shaft sits in. There’s an alignment dowel that should be there. If it’s not, you’ll want to get that fixed before moving on.
Bolting On The Arms
Go ahead and bolt on the lower arms, making sure to keep the arm aligned with the dowels on the frame. The U-bolts that hold these arms on need to be tightened down evenly – if not, they could fail over time.
From here, install the upper arms with the provided hardware and assemble the coil-over springs. We had the coil spring adjusters all the way down at their lowest setting, which is where the truck sits the lowest; that made it easier for installation.
With the arms in place and the coil spring in place, we installed our new spindles with disc brakes, tightened down the castle nuts and installed cotter pins.
This truck had a factory sway bar, so we already had the mounts to bolt up the new sway bar; however, some trucks didn’t come with a sway bar. The solution there is to bolt the sway bar to the lower control arms with the sway bar end links, then hold the sway bar to the frame with the brackets attached. The brackets will match the frame where it’s supposed to be; this way, you can drill holes and attach the sway bar.
With everything installed, we bled the brakes, installed the wheels and set it down on the ground. At this point we didn’t dial in the suspension and ride height quite yet as we wanted to get the rear suspension installed before getting our ride height and alignment done.
Time to upgrade the rear suspension to match the front suspension. Be sure to tune into the next video!
If you have any questions, please feel free to give us a ring at (952) 985-5675 or shoot us an email.
63-72 C10 Rear Suspension Install - Video 2/3
63-87 C10 QA1 Suspension Setup - Video 3/3
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