Antique kitchen sink

Antique kitchen sink DEFAULT

Antique Farm Sink Makeover {Tips for Restoring an Old Sink on a Budget}

When I shared a shot of my farm sink on Instagram I had several questions and requests to write a post detailing how I refreshed an antique sink. Here is a step-by-step tutorial for anyone trying to do this on a super-tight budget. I am going to show you what did and didn’t work. Hopefully you will be encouraged  to take on a similar restoration project that will give an authentic farmhouse feel to your home.

These high-back cast iron sinks are the essence of the early 1900s American farmhouse kitchen (the apron style farm sink finds its roots in Europe). They practically ooze farm charm! I think this sink was oozing some other stuff too, but I my heart skipped a beat when I found it on a visit to my local ReStore at Habitat for Humanity. It was love at first sight and I practically stole this beautiful rusty-crusty 1929 farm sink for only $75!

The first thing I tackled when we brought the sink home was the outside. It looked the worst, but I later found out it was the easiest to restore. I set up a work table in my front yard utilizing two sawhorses and a sheet of plywood. My poor husband had to carry the 200+ pound cast iron sink and hoist it up onto my makeshift table. Using a tough wire brush from his toolbox, I scrubbed the flaking layers of paint and much of the rust off. I really put a lot of pressure on the brush because I knew the cleaner the surface, the better the paint would stick.

Next, I got out my garden hose and gave my filthy sink a good spray down, making sure to wash away all the rust dust and debris. Then I let it air dry for a couple of hours. One of the wonderful things about these antique cast iron sinks and tubs is that the craftsman always stamped the birthdate on the bottom of each piece, so I could pinpoint the exact date my farm sink was cast. It was cast by the Crane company on April 19th, 1929.

Once the sink bottom was completely dry, I applied a very thick coat of oil based Rust-oleum protective enamel paint in semi-gloss white. I purchased 1 quart from Walmart for around $11 and only used 1/3 of the contents. Knowing that it is almost impossible to clean your brush after this type of paint, I was careful to use a beat up old brush that I could throw away after this project.

This paint is designed to adhere to metal and claims to stop rust, so I felt it would be perfect for the job. {I actually used this same paint in my antique bathtub makeover. You can check that post out by clicking HERE} I let that dry over night before moving on to restoring the inside of my farm sink.

The inside of my sink was—to put it lightly—disgusting! I knew that was why it had been so cheap at ReStore and why no one else had bought the poor thing, but I also knew that on our super-tight budget we could not afford to have it professionally refinished. So I resolved to do the best I could and see whatever damage was left as “character” or as Joanna Gaines says, let the piece “tell a story” of its nearly 100 year life. I am going to be honest though—I didn’t really like the story this sink was telling. The brown, yellow, and grayish mystery stains kinda gave me the shivers if I looked at them too long.

I asked a girlfriend’s advice and Googled ideas for getting the stains out. First, I tried the natural remedies, because I was wary of being too harsh on the antique finish. I made a paste of water and Borax (an all natural detergent), covered the whole bottom of the sink, and let it set over night. There’s no doubt that my sink was cleaner the next morning, but those stains didn’t budge.

The next night I tried a paste several people on YouTube swore was the miracle sink stain remover: baking soda and white vinegar. That did absolutely nothing! I was getting frustrated. Could I really live with such gross stains in my farmhouse kitchen? I also tried Magic Eraser with no success. I scrubbed and scrubbed till my hands felt raw, but those ugly stains hung on! I admit I felt like crying. We had worked so hard on this kitchen for three years now. I just wanted my sink to be clean and white! I prayed for the answer.

One night my husband told me he remembered hearing the elderly local guy we bought our cast iron bathtub from mention that a product called Lime-A-Way was good for getting rust stains out of antique tubs. I was thrilled when my husband easily found the product for $1 at Dollar General, but it was a bit disconcerting to find that the only one at the store was made for toilet cleaning (they make spray bottle versions too). At this point I was willing to try anything!

I hoped it would work, but I was afraid to get my hopes up too much. I followed the instructions and let the green gel set on my sink for ten minutes, then I cautiously scrubbed the whole inside of the sink. To my relief it totally brought back my farm sink to its original beautiful shade of white!

Not a trace of the awful stains was left after I gave it a final rinse!

Paired with this stunning Ebay faucet my parents gave me for Christmas, my farm sink looks like a farmhouse dream from 1929! I love it so much and I am so thankful that there was an inexpensive alternative to refinishing this antique sink. There are still a few dings and nicks in the ceramic finish, but that is a part of the farm sink’s story I am willing to tell. I feel so blessed to have this authentic farm sink in my kitchen. It’s the perfect sink for our 1893 farmhouse!

If you are interested in finding out more about the reproduction vintage style faucet I added to my sink, here is all the Ebay information you would need to search and purchase an identical piece. Because my particular farm sink is on the shallow side we did end up having to contact the manufacturer Kingston Brass to purchase a shorter head at additional cost. However they were kind enough to give us a discount through a cheaper supplier, who were very helpful.

Stay tuned to see the beautiful base my husband built for the sink and to see it installed in our DIY farmhouse kitchen. If you have any questions regarding my sink makeover or my faucet, please don’t hesitate to ask in the comments section below. I would also love to hear what you think of my new/old sink and what farmhouse style additions you have added to your own kitchen…

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Grampa's Antique Kitchen

In 2000 my wife and I started hunting for vintage kitchen items for our own kitchen. Our goal was to convert our home which was built in 1970, to look as if it were built/furnished in the 1930-40 era. I liked so many different stoves that we found, that I began to collect them for my own enjoyment. Then I set up a display and began adding vintage kitchen sinks, refrigerators and Hoosiers. After a while I decided to turn it into a paying hobby so that I could sell some items that others may be searching for and buy other items for my collection that I did not already have. We love all of the old appliances and furnishings. I am always excited to find another nice sink or appliance that is of a different style or special color. Yes, special color. Not only do we have sinks for example that are white, but we have yellow, mint/ming green, pink, brown, peach and even orchid! The early stoves were available in many of these special colors as well. We hope that we can help you put together your own vintage kitchen that you can enjoy as much as we enjoy ours. NOTE: If seriously interested, direct questions to my email or call me. I am seldom able to respond to questions on Houzz.

Services Provided

Kitchen Remodeling, farmhouse and antique sinks, vintage stoves

Areas Served

Ashburnham, Ashby, Athol, Baldwinville, East Templeton, Fitchburg, Gardner, Hubbardston, Phillipston, Princeton, South Ashburnham, Templeton, Westminster, Winchendon, North America plus


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The cast iron question 

I once lived in a house with a porcelain-on-cast-iron sink; its basin was rusted through. It was usable, barely, but anyone washing dishes had to take care not to get scraped knuckles. Or tetanus.

Provided the sink is not so far gone, several strategies may help refurbish a cast-iron sink finished in vitreous enamel. As long as the working part of the sink is free from rust spots and large chips—and isn’t rusting away—the sink can be cleaned of stains, touched up with automotive paint, and waxed to protect the fragile glossy finish. On the other hand, if rust or other heavy damage has invaded the basin, popped up around the pipes, eroded the drain, or affected other heavily used areas, the sink may be ready for new life as a yard planter.

That’s because, outside of a foundry, it’s next to impossible to re-create the high-heat bonding process between cast iron and enamel that took place when the sink was made.

Companies all over the country refurbish ceramic tubs and sinks with enamel or epoxy coatings, usually after etching the surface with chemicals that allow successive coats of paint to bond.

While the best new finish on a tub can last for eight to 10 years, it’s a different story for a hard-working sink. “You can’t put paint—and that’s what all the finishes are—on a surface and expect that it’s going to take cast-iron pans and knives and last,” says Ken Buzzell, the owner of Grampa’s Antique Kitchen.

One of the few places that still does high-heat reporcelainizing is Custom Ceramic Coatings, a company in the Chicago area. The company will sandblast the sink, removing all the original porcelain, then apply a new enamel finish, and bake the sink in a kiln. The results can last a decade or even more. But demand is high (there’s usually a waiting list measured in years rather than months); the heavy sink must be shipped to and from the factory; and the refinishing cost is comparable to the cost of a vintage or new cast-iron sink.

You can have higher hopes if your vintage porcelain sink is made of cast steel, however. A handful of companies around the country will sandblast the porcelain from a cast-steel sink and refinish it with new porcelain, which is then fired to between 1400 and 1600 degrees F. Be aware, though, that for most of these companies, refinishing vintage fixtures is a sideline. 

Kitchen sinks made of other materials are more forgiving of daily insults. Stainless-steel sinks are among the easiest to restore, even when the sink is nicked and scratched. Yes, you can damage a stainless-steel sink if you go cleaning and polishing it the wrong way. But as long as you follow some key techniques, you’ll end up with a sink that gleams once more. Always start with the gentlest, least abrasive methods, and always work with the grain of the metal.

As for copper, allow it to develop patina naturally, and the sink will supply decades of successful use.

Because soapstone is nonporous, it is extremely stain resistant. It’s also impervious to chemicals, acids, and heat, so no household products that can harm it. Soapstone likes to be used, adherents say, and small scratches can be rubbed out with the flick of a thumb.

The Pro Tip: Because soapstone contains talc, scratches tend to disappear with further use. Rub out deep or persistent scratches with medium-grit sandpaper (120–150 grit), sanding by hand in a circular motion over the scratch. Follow with 220-grit paper. Re-oil the area.

Making a cast-iron sink

Sleek, heavy, and highly durable, cast-iron sinks and tubs appeared in the 1880s. (Cast-iron tubs were first marketed as hog scalders and horse troughs, but American homeowners had other ideas.) The vitreous enamel finish made them easy to clean and sanitary, and cast iron’s heat retention was a real benefit when water had to be heated on the stove.

Creating a cast-iron sink today is an intensely industrial process that takes place in a mechanized factory setting. It begins with the making a two-part casting mold from the steel sink pattern. The first half of the mold is filled with moist sand and some clay, packed in under pressure. The clay helps bond the sand, to hold the correct shape. The sand mold is lifted and transferred to the other half of the mold. The two molds are brought together, leaving a small gap between them.

Next, hot liquid metal (from mostly recycled scrap iron) is poured into openings at the top of the mold, filling the gap at center. The mold is allowed to cool for about 20 minutes, long enough for the iron to solidify.

A shaking device breaks the mold, revealing the newly formed sink. Immediately, the sink is sprayed with a specially formulated glass powder, an undercoat for the porcelain-enamel finish. It’s set on a mechanical pedestal, which rotates rapidly as two more layers of glass powder are applied while the sink is still hot. The powder bonds instantly to the undercoat, forming a permanent bond with the iron casting. Between coats, the sink cools, then goes to a furnace for reheating.

The Vintage Sink Market 

Sink too far gone, or is it just wrong for the house? Whether you are looking for a monster cast-iron sink on porcelain legs, a smaller wall-mounted sink with or without drainboards, or a rarity like a true Monel (metal) sink, you have options aplenty. A spate of vintage-sinks specialists offer gently refurbished beauties reaching the 100-year mark. You can source your own sink from a salvage dealer (be sure there’s no rust on critical working parts, and don’t buy a sink that was epoxy-painted). Don’t expect perfection. Or, you can buy a new period-look sink.

Help for Porcelain

Lots of good-looking cast-iron sinks are still available as salvage. But if an unrefurbished sink has seen better days, are there things you can do yourself?

Plenty, says Ken Buzzell of Grampa’s Antique Kitchen, who buys and refurbishes cast-iron, stainless steel, and other vintage sinks that he knows he can revive and resell. His tips:

  • Clean and Wax The glossy finish typical of new porcelain has usually worn off a vintage sink, so it is no longer “sealed” and will stain easily. To remove existing stains, scrub the sink hard with Bar Keepers Friend, or even Comet. For stubborn stains, use vinegar, or phosphoric or tannic acid sparingly and with extreme caution. Then coat basins and porcelain drainboards with Carnauba hard wax, reapplying every two weeks or so. (Buff the wax for more shine.)

After contact with acidic foods (tomatoes, lemons, coffee), wash the sink with baking soda, rinse well, and dry the surface.

Never allow acids to sit in the sink! For everyday cleaning—this goes for all porcelain sinks, new and old—use a non-abrasive cleanser (not Comet; try a mild liquid). Rinse the sink after use. 

  • Clean the Underside If the underside is rusty or peeling, remove the sink and wire-brush the area. Wash with soap and water and wipe with mineral spirits. Allow the surface to dry, then apply a rust-inhibiting paint such as Rust-Oleum, using a brush. 
  • Repair Chips Touch up small chips or scratches with Porc-A-Fix, or Rust-Oleum Specialty Appliance Touch-Up paint, an epoxy paint that comes in white, almond, biscuit, and black. (Ken Buzzell custom-mixes paint for more exotic colors, using automotive paint with a hardener.) Paint around the drain or in the basin won’t last long if the sink gets regular use.

The Pro Tip: Even a slow leak will eat away porcelain, whether the sink is old or new. If there’s evidence of a leak (such as a spot where the enamel is worn), call a plumber.

Remedies for Stainless Steel 

The best approach to refreshing a scratched stainless-steel surface is to clean and polish the entire sink, using the least abrasive methods possible, plus a lot of elbow grease. Always work with the grain of the metal. Some sinks have matte (brushed) finishes while others are smooth and reflective. It’s especially important to clean in long, uniform strokes, covering the entire surface. Otherwise, you may leave marks.

Clean Start by rinsing the sink with water, then do a quick cleaning with a degreasing detergent such as Dawn dishwashing liquid. For deeper cleaning, use almost any cleanser: one with bleach, a lightly abrasive cleaning powder such as Bon Ami or Bar Keepers Friend, baking soda, whitening toothpaste, or even flour scattered over the surface. Use a scrubbing pad (such as Scotch-Brite Dobie) and work in long smooth strokes, always in the direction of the grain. A thorough cleaning should take at least three to five minutes. The result is a much cleaner, lightly abraded surface.

Remove Scratches You’ll need to use steel wool or a Scotch-Brite pad with some level of abrasiveness in combination with a liquid polish or rubbing compound to remove scratches, such as a stainless-steel cleaner or an automotive chrome or metal polish. (Just be sure not to get Turtle Wax on your countertops, as it may erode them.) For deeper scratches, start with a scouring pad or a slightly coarser grade of steel wool (00 Fine or 0 Fine) and expect to repeat the process.

Add some cleaner to the steel wool and apply it over a large area, then begin to scrub in long strokes, taking care to reach all areas, especially corners and rims. The more even the strokes, the better the finish will look. The pad may turn grey or even black: it’s picking up metal from the sink as part of the smoothing process. Clean up as much of the residue as possible with dry paper towels; avoid rinsing it down the drain. The more time you spend, the smoother the sink will become. If scratches remain, repeat the process with a finer grade of steel wool and more polish. To get a more reflective finish, follow up with a metal or chrome polish and a cotton rag for at least three and up to 15 minutes. Clean up residue with Bar Keepers Friend and a wet paper towel.

Alternative Methods Cleaning and buffing kits are designed for use with a bench grinder or drill, but few are made specifically for sinks. A good kit includes polish formulated for stainless steel, plus sanding pads and soft buffing pads. Or: have the sink professionally sanded and buffed. Check references and make sure the pro you use has experience restoring metal and stainless-steel sinks.

Reviving a Stainless-Steel Sink

1: Before This sink is less than 10 years old, but it already shows moderate scratching and a drain that’s been rubbed so much, the brass is showing through.

2: Apply polish Rub the polishing agent on the sink in long, smooth strokes.

3: Remove debris Remove the worked polish with paper towels to keep it out of the sewage or septic system. The black debris is from fine metal particles that have actually been removed from the sink.

4: After The sink is much cleaner, and many of the scratches have visibly receded.

Refreshing Copper Patina

Most older copper sinks tend to mellow to a lovely coppery brown, but newer ones are a different story —sporting rings, unsightly amoeba-like spots, and high- and lowlights that are anything but attractive. To even out the appearance of the sink, try this method, recommended by Dino Rachiele of Rachiele Sinks

You’ll need:

  • a natural sea sponge, preferably with a random hole pattern
  • white vinegar
  • a spray bottle (optional)

Clean the sink thoroughly with a degreasing detergent, such as Dawn. The sink must be completely free of grease or oil. Then clean with a mildly abrasive scouring pad, such as  Scotch-Brite Dobie.

Spray or wet the sponge with vinegar. The sponge should be damp, but not wet enough to drip on the copper. Dab the damp sponge over all areas of the sink that need fresh patina. Try to avoid drip marks. Let dry and reapply three or four times. The copper should begin to turn green.

When the sink is mostly green, wet the same sponge with water until thoroughly wetted, but not dripping wet. Rub gently over the dried patina for about five minutes. You will see a soapy-looking, pasty green. Let sit for 10 to 15 minutes. Add water to the sponge and go over the sink one more time. Rinse well. The patina should now be even. To keep the patina in good condition, dry the sink after each use.

Tags: copper sinksOHJ May 2020sinksStainless SteelVintage Sinks

By Mary Ellen Polson

Mary Ellen Polson is a writer and Senior Editor for Arts & Crafts Homes, Early Homes, and Old House Journal.

More From This Category

Building Farmhouse #19: 1927 Cast Iron Farmhouse Apron Sink

Old fixtures can sink your budget Design: The vintage look is inviting, but take care not to pour your money down the drain.

Authentic vintage bathtubs and kitchen and bath sinks can be brimming with character and charm. Old claw-footed tubs are deep and roomy; pedestal and wall-mounted sinks with legs are stately-looking, and farmhouse-style sinks are the perfect complement to country-style kitchens.

But they can also be a good way of pouring money down the drain. They may appear indestructible, but many old sinks and tubs have all but reached the end of their useful lives, which may explain why they're relatively easy to come by, particularly in larger towns and cities, where old homes and hotels from the late 1800s to the 1950s have been demolished after their salvageable artifacts have been removed. Of course, changing tastes can also account for the supply; even those with an appreciation for antique furnishings often prefer more modern plumbing amenities.

Part of the problem is that, when compared to new reproductions and more modern versions, old sinks and tubs are sometimes overpriced to begin with. You can expect to shell out anywhere from $250 to $1,000 for sinks and tubs, or about the same amount for new fixtures. There are some rare and special specimens out there, but just because a sink has a pedestal and a tub has feet doesn't automatically justify big-ticket pricing.

In fact, they should be going for bargain rates because the purchase price is often only the beginning of their eventual cost. Faucets, drains and fittings can be expensive and hard to come by. They are often available only through specialty suppliers rather than your local plumber or home improvement store.

Some old pedestal sinks were designed with drains and water supply lines routed through the floor, a problem if your existing plumbing runs through the wall. Compared to sinks in built-in vanities, they offer almost no counter space. Big, old, cast-iron tubs can weigh hundreds of pounds empty. Reinforcing the bathroom floor may be required to keep them from going south when filled.

Classic "apron-front" kitchen sinks with backsplashes that climb the wall, often 5 to 6 feet long, can weigh up to 300 pounds. Fitting cabinets and counter tops around them can add to the cost.

Made before pop-up drain stoppers were invented, many old sinks and tubs will accommodate only rubber stoppers, something many users will find inconvenient, to say the least. And if you want some modern conveniences, such as a single-lever faucet or, at the kitchen sink, built-in dispensers for liquid soap, filtered water or a pull-out sprayer, retrofitting may be impossible.

And then there's the porcelain finish. Minor rust stains can usually be removed easily, but after decades of use, abuse and maintenance with gritty and caustic cleansers, the glaze may have been all but scoured away. If so, the surface will be porous, subject to easy staining and difficult to clean. Refinishing is possible and popular. But it's a stopgap solution and adds to the already-inflated price of old fixtures. Reglazing a sink will cost about $125 and up. For an old tub, expect to pay $250 or more. Colors other than white will cost more.

Refinishing companies may refer to the new finish as porcelain (which is a fired-on finish applied to steel or cast iron), but it's really more like a sprayed-on paint. When done right it's relatively durable and can renew the looks of an old fixture. But a five-year warranty is about the best you can expect, and it may not be transferable if you sell your house.

You'll also have to avoid abrasive cleansers and some other cleaning agents. Naturally, some refinishers and some refinishing processes are superior to others. Check references and ask to see samples.

If you're determined to go the antique route, the best advice is to shop around for rare and special sinks and tubs that are unusually well-preserved, and then to reserve their use for powder rooms, guests baths or baths used by adults only.

With old kitchen sinks, it probably makes sense only to buy one that doesn't require refinishing. No matter how careful you are in the kitchen, a dropped knife, frying pan or platter is bound to damage even the best of new finishes sooner or later.

As for antique toilets, avoid them if for no other reason than that they are notorious water wasters, using five to seven gallons per flush, compared with today's toilets that consume just a gallon or two.

If you come across a truly virtuoso specimen that can be the centerpiece of a kitchen or bath, it may well be worth the money to buy and install it. If not, you're probably better off avoiding the many pitfalls and buying reproduction vintage fixtures. Almost every manufacturer of kitchen and bath fixtures offers antique-looking sinks and tubs that offer nostalgic styling with the advantages of modern plumbing, faucets, extensive warranties and easy maintenance.

Pub Date: 9/06/98


Sink antique kitchen

Many people take modern day conveniences for granted, never thinking about what would historically be considered a luxury, like the differences between antique kitchen sinks and their contemporary counterparts. These staples of the domestic culinary world quickly transitioned from being wash basins filled with well water to the sturdy, stainless steel counter-top sinks in kitchens today.

Sinks as Centerpieces of the Historic Kitchen

Historic kitchens would be bereft without a wash sink of some kind, one large enough to handle a person hand-washing multiple loads of dishes as well as large enough to prepare meat and ingredients which were then cooked into scrumptious meals. Early 'dry sinks' were unable to be drained and were lined with lead or zinc. Yet, once the development of a more permanent, 'wet sink' appeared at the turn of the twentieth century, people began adapting their kitchens to fit these plumbed centerpieces. Many of these early sinks were highly customized, set to fit one's height so as to ensure that washing would not be an arduous process.

Related Articles

Types of Antique Kitchen Sinks

Overall, antique kitchen sinks generally have a catch-all term in popular culture: farmhouse sinks. Mass-produced, drop-in, countertop sinks that are included in most modern homes were not introduced until the mid-20th century, and so they aren't actually considered antique, despite many of them including antique characteristics in their designs. However, these unique antique sinks could be personalized with features, materials, and designs to fit anyone's individual taste, and this variety appeals to contemporary collectors and makes them rather lucrative collectibles.

Farmhouse Kitchen Sinks

Farmhouse kitchen sinks are rather large, often trough-shaped sinks that were fit into homes during the early 20th century. Considering their size, these sinks were usually their own distinct appliance within the kitchen and could accommodate large culinary preparation and/or canning and preserving food for future consumption. This sink style has seen a resurgence in popularity among interior designers, so you can expect market prices to be rather high for these antique items.

Materials Used to Craft Antique Kitchen Sinks

These sinks, and their faucets, were made out a variety of materials which include the following.

  • Porcelain
  • Cast Iron
  • Enamel
  • Copper
  • Nickle
  • Iron
  • Brass

Antique Kitchen Sinks' Customizable Features

One large draw of antique kitchen sinks is how often they were customized to fit the homeowner's needs. These are a few of the different features that people were able to add-on to their antique kitchen sinks.

  • Single vs. Double Bowl - People could choose to have either a single basin or have two basins divided down the middle added into their sinks.
  • Drop-in Style - Drop-in bowls removed much of the covetable counter space that came with large trough sinks and were better fit for people with lots of already positioned counterspace.
  • Troughs - Trough sinks are named in honor of animal troughs because of their long, deep appearance; these sinks normally feature one basin with multiple washing stations and faucets.
  • Drainboards - Drainboards were historic drying racks that could be built into the sides of the sink's bowl(s) where people could leave wet utensils and plates to dry.
  • Apron-Front - Apron-front sinks exposed the front-face of the kitchen sink to the kitchen's interior in an attempt to blend the area with the rest of the space.
  • Backsplash - Some people had built-in backsplashes molded into their antique sinks to protect their walls from errant water droplets.
  • Faucet Soap Dish - Metal soap dishes, which could rest on top of a sink's faucets, could also be added to antique kitchen sinks.

Evaluating Antique Kitchen Sinks

First and foremost, antique kitchen sinks that have been refinished or refurbished are going to cost more than unaltered ones will. This is due, in some part, to the fact that this alteration means they can actually be used in the modern home. Additionally, antique kitchen sinks featuring drainboards are some of the most valuable on the market. Seemingly, this comes from the recent popularity of this style among contemporary interior designers.

Antique Kitchen Sinks at Auction

Interestingly, most sinks you find listed at auction are typically white and made out porcelain or cast iron. These sinks sell for anywhere between $200 and $750 depending on their quality, size, and condition. Unsurprisingly, rare antique kitchen sinks which boast unique characteristics, such as color, can be sold for much higher values. For instance, an antique jadeite kitchen sink is currently listed for about $2,000 in one online auction. In addition, antique kitchen sinks made out of cast iron are particularly desirable because of their durability and the likelihood that they can be sanded down and refinished to be used again. For example, this antique cast iron sink is listed for almost $1,000. You might even come across sinks equipped with whole cabinetry. Depending on the cabinet's condition, these can be worth anywhere between $1,000 to $2,000, such as this porcelain sink with an attached metal cabinet that is priced at almost $1,500.

Having Your Antique Kitchen Sink Refinished

The thing that will significantly increase your antique kitchen sink's value is having it refinished and equipped with modern plumbing. Since this can be a difficult task for beginners to take on, you should invest in having a professional refinish your antique sink. Look for restoration companies in your area that specialize in antique kitchen sinks or antique plumbing - like Dennie's Resurfacing LLC, which services the American Northeast - to ensure you get the best results.

Revitalizing Your Kitchen With an Antique Sink

If you've found yourself bitten by the redecorating bug, then an easy way to revitalize your kitchen area is to replace your modern sink with an antique. These large sinks will make perfect additions to those who love to cook, have finnicky dishwashers, or let their dishes pile high before getting around to cleaning them. With the rise of farmhouse chic in contemporary interior design, taking the plunge to put in a refurbished antique kitchen sink may just get you featured in your favorite home goods magazine or tv show.

© 2021 LoveToKnow Media. All rights reserved.

Antique Sinks - Four Tips for Vintage Plumbing - FARMHOUSE VERNACULAR


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