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RV toilets aren’t indestructible! They’re produced and assembled with a bunch of moving parts, valves, washers, flanges, and more. With enough time or use, some parts from even the best toilet will show signs of wear eventually. It’s a good idea to give them the once over now and again looking for problems before they develop.
One of the most used parts of any RV toilet is the foot pedal. It takes the weight of the foot and delivers the required motion when being activated. As a result, it can sometimes wear down or wear out, and that can contribute to a water leak issue.
Is your RV toilet leaking at the foot pedal? As RV toilet leaks go, it’s one of the most common ones to happen. Usually, it’s either because of a residue surrounding the pedal area or because the intake valve has become damaged. Certainly, the residue will break away with enough toilet flushes to come, but the intake value won’t fix itself. It will need replacing. But the good news is that it can be done by hand.
Let’s now look at how to resolve the leaking below the foot pedal and whether there could be other root causes at play too.
When it comes to water pooling on the floor near the RV toilet’s foot pedal, the most common causes are either a build-up of residue that usually shifts after a few flushes, or the intake valve has malfunctioned or broken.
The residue or sediment only builds up with a lack of use of RV toilets – for instance, if the RV is only occasionally used for short vacations and otherwise sits in the driveway.
With the intake valve, it can become broken or damaged due to several possible causes. These are as follows:
Metal rust – RV toilets are mostly produced using either rubber or polymer, but the occasional part is still made from metal. The original intake value is often metal and so can rust with water exposure. A secondary toilet issue could have subjected the valve to additional moisture that accelerated the onset of rust too. To avoid rust in the future, use a lubricant that’s sprayed on the valve.
Wear and tear – It doesn’t matter what part of the RV it is, it will experience the bumpy road, moisture effects, and a host of other issues. So, wear and tear is definitely a factor. Just going over a country road with vibrations shaking the entire RV won’t do anything much good!
Winter or colder temperatures – The cold or extreme temperatures down to freezing or below can cause an intake valve to freeze and break. The colder temperatures may cause parts to become fragile and develop cracks as a result. Or when ice has formed either inside or surrounding it, when it thaws out, it can create pressure that causes a crack too. Failing to use RV antifreeze in the winter can easily play havoc with your RV toilet’s intake valve (and other components too).
Also Read: How to Protect RV Skylights from Hail?
What to Do If Your Camper Toilet is Leaking
When your camper toilet is leaking at the pedal, it’s not something that can just be left. It won’t fix itself if given enough time. Unless you’ve left the camper or motorhome a few weeks or months without use, then it’s not a residue problem but more than likely a bad valve. With the RV toilet leaking at the flush pedal, here are some initial suggestions:
Try Some Lubricant on the Intake Value
While you can add a lubricant to the valve to free it up, if it’s become stuck and won’t open or close properly, that’s not likely to be due to a lack of lubricant. There’s nothing to stop you from using an appropriate lubricant and giving it a try first, but if that doesn’t change anything, then probably the RV toilet’s valve has gone bad.
Read Also: How to Stay Warm in a Camper Shell
Repairing the Valve Isn’t Usually Worth the Bother
They’re sufficiently inexpensive to replace and fit that it’s not worth calling out a plumber to attempt to fix it.
Also, it isn’t worth trying to remove it and open it up to see if you can do it yourself even if you’re great at DIY. Most people won’t own the right tools for the job or if away at the time with the RV or camper, then it’s just bad timing.
Also Read: Can You Flush a Tampon Down a Camper Toilet?
Where you’ve confirmed that the pedal itself is undamaged and there are no other obvious issues, then most likely the valve’s broken. A valve replacement will be necessary to resolve an RV toilet with a foot pedal leak. And if any of the three causes mentioned above seem to ring true to you, then that’s even more confirmation.
Here are three suggestions tailored to popular RV toilet brands and various models:
Dometic Valve Kit for a Dometic 300 or 310 RV Toilet
If you own a Dometic 300 or Dometic 310 RV toilet, then you’ll need a valve kit designed to fit either of these two models (the valves are interchangeable).
There is a Domestic valve replacement kit. It’s not always in stock, so we’re also showing an alternative produced by another company that will fit these Domestic toilets too.
Read Also: Should I Run a Dehumidifier in My RV?
Beech Lane Valve Kit for a Dometic 300, 310, or 310 RV Toilet
The Beech Lane valve kit will fit the Dometic 300, 310, and 320 Series. It’s often available when the official Dometic version is not. We include this here because when your toilet is leaking, it’s not something that typically can wait until the product is back in stock Therefore, it’s good to have alternatives too.
Valve Kit for the Thetford Aqua Magic IV RV Toilet
There is also both a Thetford official valve kit and a Beech Lane one too.
The valve kits do vary depending on the type of Thetford RV toilet that you might own. So, you need to match either the respective Thetford or Beech Lane valve kits to the correct Thetford toilet model that requires a replacement valve.
The value kit below is for the Thetford Aqua Magic IV model, but there are others.
Also Read: Showering in an RV
How to Better Maintain Your RV Toilet
Here are some quick reminders on how to take better care of your RV toilet.
- Use it regularly to avoid any residue build-up near the valve or associated components. This can help to prevent some of the common issues.
- Add lubricant to the valve and other necessary toilet parts (and others in the bathroom, where appropriate) as a once-a-month maintenance activity. Doing this avoids many different bathroom issues from cropping up.
- Ensure that you add RV antifreeze to all the lines, the toilet, and even the toilet sprayer to avoid them seizing up during the winter and becoming unusable after the thawing process has been completed. It prevents many toilet-related issues.
Can You Flush Tampons Down in an RV or Camper Toilet?
Regular Toilet in RV?
Should I Run a Dehumidifier in My RV?
How to Protect RV Skylights from Hail?
How to Stay Warm in a Camper Shell
How to Shower in an RV
How Much Does It Cost to Dump RV Waste?
Will RV Antifreeze Thaw Frozen Pipes?
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RVing is a great way to enjoy camping without the hardships of camping, especially bathroom access. But what do you do if the toilet in your RV is leaking? You could take it to a dealership to fix the leak, but that’s expensive. Fixing a leak around the base of an RV toilet is simple enough that anyone can do it.
If your RV toilet is leaking around the base, the culprit is likely a bad flange seal between the toilet and the black water tank. To repair it, you need to:
- Buy a new flange seal that matches your toilet model
- Shut off the water to the toilet
- Flush the toilet to drain it
- Remove the toilet from the floor
- Replace the seal
- Put the toilet back and turn the water back on
Repairing a leak at the base of your toilet in a recreational vehicle or camper is a simple task that doesn’t take a high level of skill. Start by gathering your tools and equipment
You don’t need any specialized equipment to fix a leaking toilet, but you do need a few tools.
- Replacement seal for your toilet model. RV toilets don’t use standard plumbing parts; you have to get parts specific for your RV toilet. Repair kits and seals are sold at RV dealers or online. This flange seal found at Amazon is compatible with most Thetford toilets, a very common RV toilet manufacturer. They are also referred to as a closet flange seal.
- Wrench or socket set. The toilet is held in place by two (or sometimes three) bolts. You can use an adjustable crescent wrench to remove them in a pinch, but it’s better to use good wrenches or sockets.
Pro tip: In some models, the toilet flange bolts can be hard to reach. A socket set with a u-joint and long driver extension bar (link to Amazon) can save a lot of frustration trying to get to them.
- Putty knife. Sometimes the old flange gets gummy and hard to remove. A putty knife will help pry it loose.
- Teflon tape. Any time you disconnect plumbing fittings, it’s best to apply a sealant like Teflon tape to the pipe thread before reconnecting.
- Hand mirror to check the backside of the toilet for leaks.
- Old towels. There is always some stray water here and there in any plumbing project. Have some old towels handy to dry things up.
- Cleaning supplies. Pulling a toilet can sometimes get messy. Also, hard-to-reach areas will be accessible while the toilet is out of the way. You might as well clean up while you can.
- Rubber gloves. You know why.
That’s it. Besides the new flange seal itself, the most specialized tool you need is a socket driver extension. You don’t really need that but it makes life easier. Once you have your equipment together, you can replace the flange in just a few steps.
Step 0: Verify Leak Location First
Before you pull up the toilet, take a moment to verify that the leak really is coming from under the toilet. You don’t want to pull the toilet up if the leak is coming from somewhere else. Use the hand mirror to look at the back of the toilet and the bottom of the fittings to see if they are leaking.
Check the bowl for cracks and check to make sure water isn’t leaking higher up and running down the outside of the toilet. Some other common leaks include the water inlet valve and the flush valve. Checking the outside of the toilet also lets you verify the model number for parts.
One good sign the leak is coming from under the toilet is that the toilet only leaks after a flush. That’s the only time water passes through the flange, so it should only leak then. Once you have determined that the leak is truly under the toilet, it’s time to get to work.
Fix It Yourself is a self-guided online course where certified RV tech Ed Wilcox walks you through all the steps you need to know to properly maintain your rig and fix problems when they come up. Check it out HERE!
Step 1: Shut Off The Water
In any plumbing project, the first step is always to shut off the water supply. Most RVs have a water valve leading into the toilet that lets you shut off the water supply. If yours doesn’t have a toilet shut off valve, disconnect from your water hook up or turn off your water pump.
Once the water supply is off, flush the toilet to empty it and get the water out of the way. If you shut the water off properly, it won’t refill.
Step 2: Disconnect and Remove Toilet
The toilet is held in place by two or three bolts. They may be covered—look for caps sticking up from the base of the toilet. Remove the caps (you may have to use the putty knife to pry them loose) and set them aside. Use a wrench or socket to remove the nuts from the flange bolts.
The placement of these bolts may vary. Household toilets always have two bolts, one on each side of the toilet. Some RVs use this placement, some use a bolt in front and in back, and some use three bolts.
Unscrew the toilet water supply from the inlet valve so that you can pull the toilet away from the wall. If you don’t disconnect the water supply, you won’t be able to move the toilet very far.
Pull the toilet straight up off the flange bolts and set aside. If it’s very messy, you may want to put it on a towel or in a garbage bag to keep the floor clean.
Pro tip: Dropped Tool Protection – Once the toilet is out of the way, you want to either block the drain hole with a rag or plastic bag. While not totally necessary, it’s nice to be protected if you are prone to dropping tools down the drain. It’ll also help keep the sewer smell down.
Step 3: Remove the Old Flange Seal
The flange seal may be around the drain hole beneath the toilet, or it may be stuck to the bottom of the toilet. Either way, you have to find it and remove it.
If it is particularly old or made of wax, you will need to use the putty knife to loosen it and scrape away any old gunk left behind. You want the base of the toilet and the floor flange clean of debris so the new seal can make a good connection.
Step 4: Clean Toilet Base Area
While the toilet is out of the way, it’s easy to reach the wall behind it and the floor around the base. Scrub those clean while they are accessible.
You can also clean the base of the toilet while it is removed. Hose that sucker down to get rid of any leftover particles.
Step 5: Replace the Flange Seal
Once everything is clean, put the new flange seal in place. Center it around the toilet drain flange and follow any specific directions that came with the new seal. If there are none, which there likely won’t be, just setting it in place is enough.
Step 6: Put the Toilet Back
If you had blocked the drain before, now is the time to remove rag your stuff in there. Slip the toilet back over the flange bolts and center the toilet drain in the flange seal. Make sure to get the toilet, the drain, and the flange connected properly. Once it is seated, re-tighten the nuts.
Pro tip: To help get a good connection between the toilet and the flange, gently sit on the toilet once it is properly placed on the drain with the flange. Your body weight will help set the toilet in place prior to tightening the nuts.
Pro tip: Don’t over-tighten the nuts! If you torque the nuts down too hard, it will break a porcelain toilet. It can also damage a plastic toilet. You want the nuts firm to hold the toilet in place, but they don’t need to be torqued down like lug nuts.
Step 7: Reconnect the Water Supply
Clean the threads on the water supply nozzle and apply some Teflon tape or pipe sealant. Sometimes the old sealant will hold after being disconnected, and sometimes it won’t. It is easy and simple to replace, and the fresh sealant will keep the connection from leaking.
Step 8: Turn On the Water and Test the Toilet
When everything is reconnected, turn the water supply back on and test all the connections. Flush the toilet a few times, then check everything for leaks. If you did everything right, the water will all stay inside the toilet. If you made mistakes, it’s better to find them now than when you are camping.
Your toilet is now fixed and ready for your next RV adventure. If you have other issues like your RV toilet is running, don’t worry I have an article dedicated to fixing this issue too and it’s super simple.
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As with any plumbing, RV toilets can break down for various reasons and are susceptible to the wear and tear of everyday use. They must be properly maintained and routinely checked in order to preserve them over the course of the rest of the RV’s life.
One of the most used parts is the RV toilet pedal, and because of its frequent use and motion, it can wear down and leak, either from being used too much or not enough.
Why is my RV toilet foot pedal leaking? The most common causes of the RV toilet leak are a damaged intake valve or a buildup of sediment around the pedal. The sediment should break itself down after repeated flushes, while the intake valve is fixed by opening up the toilet and replacing the valve.
If you want to learn in detail how to take care of your pedal, or other parts of your RV’s toilet, read on for tips and instructions to keep your RV toilet running cleanly.
We will cover other possible causes of leakage, how to better take care of your foot pedal and other basic parts of the RV toilet that you can easily replace or take care of yourself.
What Causes RV Foot Pedals to Leak?
Why is my RV foot pedal leaking? The most common cause of RV foot pedals leaking is a damaged intake valve and a buildup of sediment that occurs when the toilet goes unflushed for a long period of time.
While the sediment is easily fixed by repeatedly flushing the pedal, the intake valve can be damaged by a variety of different factors that may also damage other parts of the toilet.
While the sediment is easily fixed by repeatedly flushing the pedal, the intake valve can be damaged by a variety of different factors that may also damage other parts of the toilet.
Below are listed the most common causes of intake valve damage and how to prevent it and fix it:
|Why Is My RV Foot Pedals Leaking||How To Prevent|
|Cold- Probably one of the most common causes of a leaky intake valve is cold weather. |
The cold causes the valve to become brittle and thus crack or break completely, meaning that the foot pedal no longer connects properly with the water supply and can either cause the toilet not to flush or leak under the pedal.
|To prevent the valve from breaking, try and keep your RV in shelter over the winter or, if that is not possible, make sure to occasionally start it and heat it up so that the internal temperature is never too low for very long.|
|Rust- While some pieces may be made of a plastic polymer or rubber, a metal intake valve is subject to rust, especially if exposed to a water leak caused by something else.||To prevent rust, make sure to routinely check the valve and spray with lubricant.|
|General Wear and Tear- As with vehicle part, the intake valve could suffer damage from hitting bumps in the road over time or as the result of a collision.||If you think your RV may have taken a bump or you went over rough terrain, make sure your intake valve is still tight and not cracked.|
How Should You Take Care of Your RV Foot Pedal?
Just like any other part of your RV, it is important to take good care of your toilet’s foot pedal to avoid breaking it and possibly causing a leak.
Even if you don’t plan on using your RV for an extended period of time, make sure to flush or press the pedal on occasion so sediment doesn’t build up and cause a link and you can make sure your toilet is functioning properly.
In addition, you should check joints, connections and all parts of the pedal to make sure they are running smoothly and if they aren’t, you can use a lubricant or replace the smaller damaged part to prevent future leaks and a more expensive fix in the future.
RV Toilet Foot Pedal Repair >> Check out the video below:
What is the RV Foot Pedal?
Unlike most home toilets, some RV toilets use a foot pedal to flush instead of a traditional handle.
While the end design of these pedals is to flush, they may function differently depending on your toilet.
Some pedals have the user push part way down to fill the bowl with water and then all the way down to flush, while others have you push the pedal all the way down to flush and then refill the bowl once you take your foot off the pedal.
Other Basic Parts of an RV Toilet
In addition to the intake valve and flush pedal, there are several other basic parts of your RV toilet that you should know about and that are important to maintenance for everyday use.
While some of these may be similar to your toilet at home, most vary slightly for the different needs and uses specific to an RV or any toilet not directly connected to a sewage system.
- Seal- Unlike your home toilet, most RV toilets come with a seal and valve at the bottom to prevent the stench of waste from flooding the cabin. A good trick for knowing if your seal and valve is in good shape is to check and see if it holds water while closed.
If it does hold most of the water over the course of the day, then the seal is in good shape, but if water seeps through, the seal may be damaged or dried out and must be replaced.
2. Water Module- The module connects your RV’s toilet to the water supply. While they are usually the most common causes of RV toilet leaks, they are also one of the most insured and easiest parts to replace.
If you must replace your module, make sure you find the exact make and model used for your toilet in order to avoid incompatible parts.
3. Sprayer- Because the water pressure in your RV is much lower than that of your home, most RV bathrooms come equipped with a hand sprayer to get rid of tough, sticky residue that may be left over after you flush.
These can come separate or attached to your toilet and are often simply a short hose with a handle and spray head. Like any garden hose, should the seal around the handle become cracked or the tube of the hose split in any way, the sprayer will leak and need to be replaced.
Related reading:Do RV Toilets Have Wax Rings? Here Are The Facts
How do I Clean and Maintain My RV’s Toilet?
The same steps listed above for the flush pedal and intake valve hold true for many of the other toilet parts as well.
Regular checks and maintenance will go a long way in persevering the life of your toilet and prevent leaking and flooding, as well as extend the life of parts that will occasionally need replacing such as the seal and valve.
If you want to clean the entire RV’s systems, flushing an approved cleaning solution or boiling hot water is another way to effectively preserve your RV toilet and clean lingering residue.
Simply pour the mixture into the bowl and flush so that the solution can run through the pipes and clean out the system.
Related reading:Is Charmin Toilet Paper safe for RV? – What You Need To Know
RV Toilet Leaking-How To Fix Guide
If your RV has a leaky Dometic 310 series toilet valve leak. This video will show you how to fix your leaky RV toilet in under 15 minutes. This is a Dometic 300 series Valve repair made easy.
How To Fix A Leaking RV Toilet | Valve Replacement- Dometic 300 301 310 series how to fix rv toilet >> Check out the video below:
In conclusion, there is no need to panic or turn to a mechanic (unless you feel more comfortable doing so) should your RV toilet foot pedal begin to leak.
Simply take the time to diagnose the problem and you will find that most issues you can easily fix yourself.
Regular maintenance and keeping your RV out of extreme conditions can also help preserve the life of your RV toilet.
For more helpful articles about RVs please check out our articles below:
Where to Properly Dump Portable Toilet Waste?
Can You Flush Tampons Down an RV Toilet? Facts You Should Know
Is Your RV Water Foamy? This Might Be Why.
This Is What Happens to Solar Power When Batteries Are Full? – (FACTS)
What is a Non-ducted RV Air Conditioner? (Ducted vs. Non-ducted)
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Sitting down to take care of business only to realize that you have a smelly liquid leaking from under your RV toilet is a rude awakening for anyone living in a camper.
So, how do you fix an RV toilet that’s leaking on the floor?
You can fix a leaky RV toilet by first diagnosing the problem. RV toilets generally leak onto the floor for 1 of 4 reasons – a bad flange seal, a cracked water valve, bad internal seals, or a cracked bowl.
Second, once you know why your RV toilet is leaking, the solution can involve a simple DIY fix, a new RV toilet, or professional help.
This post will show you how to figure out why your RV toilet is leaking on the floor and the steps you’ll want to follow to fix the problem.
What Causes an RV Toilet to Leak on The Floor?
First, let’s learn a bit of RV lingo. The rubber ring that seals your RV toilet to the floor is professionally known as the “Closet Flange Seal.”
It’s called a “closet” flange seal because your RV toilet is also known as a “closet”.
Don’t ask us why, we just know that it’s the case 🙂
The flange seal is usually but not always the cause of a leaky RV toilet.
But before you go replacing your flange seal, you should know what else might be causing your RV toilet to leak on the floor.
Here are other types of RV toilet leaks that might be leaving your floor wet:
1. Cracked toilet bowl
While rare, your RV toilet bowl might have a crack in it that is allowing water to drip down.
In order to diagnose this, you would need to look all around the toilet bowl with a flashlight for any signs of leaks or cracks.
You could also wrap the bottom of your toilet bowl with an old towel and let it sit overnight. If you wake up to a wet spot on the towel, that should help you pinpoint the location of the crack.
How to Fix
You could try using sealant to fill the crack, but usually the best repair is to simply purchase a new RV toilet and replace your old one.
That’s because you never know how many more cracks might be forming or if you can actually seal the crack well enough to stop a leak.
2. Bad Water Valve
RV toilet water valves are notorious for cracking and leaking if you allow your camper to get hit by a freeze.
Usually, if your RV toilet is leaking from the water valve, you’ll know it because water will be spraying out somewhere near where the water line hooks into the toilet.
How to Fix
Purchase a water valve kit like this one and be sure you get one that’s designed for your specific model RV toilet.
Then, you can follow the instructions in the water valve kit to replace the water valve on your toilet.
3. Bad Internal Seals
RV toilets have seals inside them that – among other things – seal the toilet bowl to all other pieces of the toilet. If these seals go bad, you’ll notice water leaking on the floor.
However, water will leak even when you’re not flushing. If water leaks onto your floor when you are not flushing, this could be the result of bad internal seals in your RV toilet.
How to Fix
You can either purchase a new toilet or hire an RV technician to disassemble your toilet and replace the seals.
This is not a project we’d recommend DIY’ing because it can get very messy if you don’t know what you’re doing.
Replacing an RV Toilet Flange Seal to Stop a Floor Leak
The “good” news is that it’s much more common for a flange seal to go bad than any of the above problems (e.g. bad water valve, bad seals, etc.)
It’s relatively easy to confirm that a flange seal is causing your RV toilet to leak on the floor:
If your RV toilet leaks on the floor only when you flush, the chances are it’s a bad flange seal.
Double check your toilet bowl for any visible cracks. If you don’t have any, you can probably rule this out as the source of your leak.
Use a mirror to inspect all around your toilet as you flush to confirm that water is not escaping from your water line, or any area other than the bottom of your RV toilet (your flange seal lives on the bottom of your toilet).
We’ll show you how to lift your RV toilet up in a moment, and when you do, you should double check the inside of the toilet stand for any signs of leaks.
If you don’t see any leaks inside the toilet stand, this is a good sign that water is only leaking from the bottom – right where the flange seal meets the floor.
Assuming you confirm that your closet flange seal is causing the leak, please move on to the next steps to replace your RV toilet flange seal.
Tools You’ll Need to Fix an RV Toilet That’s Leaking on the Floor
Fixing a leaky RV toilet doesn’t require any special tools. You should be able to complete the job with tools that most folks have laying around the house or RV.
Most modern RV toilets are also fairly standard, meaning you shouldn’t need any special skill or knowledge to fix a leaky toilet. Here are the tools you’ll need:
- Replacement Closet Flange Seal for your specific RV toilet – RV toilets use a special kind of seal that is different from those used in household toilets. This Thetford seal, for example, is one that will fit a large variety of RV toilets. Note that RV toilet seals are made of rubber and have a special shape. CAUTION: Do not use a house toilet seal. These seals are usually made of wax and are not designed to handle the bumps of the road. If you use a wax seal on your RV toilet, you’ll be setting the stage for another leaky toilet very soon.
- A Socket Set or Wrench – RV toilets are held down by 2-3 bolts that can be easily removed with a standard socket set or wrench. You might want an extension for your socket set if you have one, but this is not a requirement. An extension can help you get to hard to reach toilet bolts.
- Old Towels – Water is going to get on the floor when you remove an RV toilet. Have lots of towels handy to dry it right up.
- Utility Knife, Putty Knife, or an Old Screwdriver – You might need to pry off the old flange seal because it has gotten sticky over the years. Any one of these tools will help you in case there’s anything you need to pry off your RV toilet to make way for the new flange seal.
- Teflon Tape – Always a good thing to have when working with plumbing. This handy tape will help you create a watertight seal on any threaded pipes.
- Cleaning Supplies – No matter how much water you drain out, you’re still going to get water on the floor. Also, when you pull your RV toilet up, you’ll expose areas that haven’t previously seen the light of day. Why not clean these areas while you’re working?
- Rubber Gloves – RV toilets can be nasty. Wear gloves to protect yourself and others from the germs that might be down there.
Step 1: Shut Off the Water
Unless you want a bath as you fix your leaking RV toilet, you will need to shut off water going into your toilet.
Almost all RV toilets have a simple valve on the water pipe going into the toilet that will allow you to shut the water off. Turn this valve off to ensure that no water is going to the toilet.
Once you have water shut off to the toilet, you should flush it one last time to make sure that all the water is out of your RV toilet.
If you don’t see your RV toilet shut off valve or simply want to be extra careful, you can shut off all water going into your RV and turn your RV water pump off to make sure no water gets into your toilet while you’re repairing your RV toilet leak.
Step 2: Disconnect Your RV Toilet from Water
Now that you’ve turned the water off and gathered your tools, you need to actually disconnect your RV toilet from the pipe that is providing it water.
To do this, locate the water pipe running into your RV toilet. When you’re facing the toilet, this pipe will usually be on the bottom right side of the toilet.
Once you’ve found the water pipe, you should notice a threaded end that is screwed onto your toilet.
See if you can unscrew it with your (gloved) hand first.If you can’t loosen the pipe with your hands, use a wrench to gently unscrew the water pipe from the toilet.
Step 3: Pull the Toilet Up
Once you have the water pipe completely free from your toilet, locate the 2-3 bolts holding it down.
These bolts might be covered by white plastic caps which you can simply pull or pry up (while being careful not to damage them).
Once the bolts are exposed, you can simply use your wrench or ratchet to loosen the nuts holding the toilet down.
This is where you might want to use the extension for your ratchet set (if you have one) to reach the toilet bolts on the floor.
Be sure to put the toilet bolts in a safe place when you take them off so you don’t lose them!
Once you’re certain that the toilet bolts are removed and the water line is disconnected, simply lift your RV toilet straight up. It should slide off easily.
Be sure you have a towel or perhaps even a garbage bag ready to set your RV toilet on.
Once your RV toilet is removed, you will need to locate the flange seal. Usually, this seal will be stuck to the bottom of your toilet.
Sometimes the closet flange seal will remain in the hole in the floor that goes into your black tank.
Either way, the flange seal is a small black rubber ring that you will need to remove to make way for the new seal.
Step 4: Cover the Sewer Hole
Once you remove your RV toilet, you’ll see a hole in the floor with a black ring around it.
This is the drain going into your RVs black tank. You’ll want to stuff a garbage bag or old rag in this hole so you don’t lose any tools down the stink.
Step 5: Remove the Old Flange Seal and Clean Area
Once you locate the old flange seal, you should be able to easily remove it by pulling it off your toilet or prying it from the ring in the floor.
Sometimes the old seal might’ve gotten stuck to something in which case you’ll need to work a bit harder to get it out.
Once the old flange seal is removed, clean the bottom of the toilet bowl and the sewer area in the floor so you have a good clean surface to install the new seal. Be sure there is no debris that would prevent a tight seal.
Step 6: Install Your New Toilet Flange Seal
The new flange seal will be a rubber ring. Many toilet seal makers also add an extra layer of rubber that tapers in.
This tapered layer serves to guide the water from your toilet into your black tank and provides an even better seal.
If the flange seal you purchased comes with instructions, follow those for installing the new seal on your RV toilet.
Generally speaking, however, it is best to put the flange seal directly on the bottom of your toilet rather than onto the hole in the floor.
If your seal has extra rubber that tapers in, you want this end going down toward the floor.
For example, a flange seal that has a tapered part will look sort of like a cone. You want to put the bottom of the cone down toward the floor so water flows through it more easily.
Be sure that you don’t push the flange seal too far up the bottom of your toilet – you want to create a tight seal between your flange seal and the sewer drain in your floor.
Step 7: Carefully Put Your RV Toilet Back Down
Now that your flange seal is on the toilet, you’re ready to place it back onto the drain.
Start by removing the bag or old rag you used to plug the drain hole, make sure all surfaces are clean and free from debris, and then gently set your toilet back down.
You will need to be careful to line your RV toilet back up with the screws in the ground that were originally holding it down.
Once you have put your RV toilet back down and feel that you have an even seal, you can use your wrench or ratchet to re-fasten the bolts you took off in step 4.
Step 8: Reconnect Water and Test
Now that the toilet is bolted back down, you should reconnect the water. Start by putting new teflon tape on the threaded end to create a watertight seal.
You can then hand tighten the water pipe back to your toilet in the exact same place where you originally unscrewed it.
Once you hand tighten the pipe, you can use your wrench to tighten the pipe a few turns, but be careful not to overtighten.
Lastly, you can test your RV toilet with a few flushes. Make sure everything is flushing properly and also be sure to feel around the water line connection to ensure there are no leaks that started when you disconnected it.
And there you have it! You’ve just fixed an RV toilet that’s leaking without having to take it to the shop.
Be sure to double check that the leak doesn’t continue, but so long as your floor stays dry during the week following the repair, you should be set for years of leak free bliss!
Last Updated on by Aaron Richardson
Josh is half of the husband+wife duo behind OutofNorm.al – where their mantra is “Life, Un-wasted”. Josh and his wife have been galavanting all over the country in an ’88 Airstream for the past 4 years…and counting. They seek out small towns, forest lands, and the next vintage camper they can renovate for their Airbnb glamping business. Josh and Brittain are currently posted up in Montana’s Flathead Valley whilst living in a 1987 Airstream 345 Motorcoach.
Toilet leaking dometic
RV Toilet Problems and What to Do
One of the best conveniences of owning an RV is that many models come equipped with your own private bathroom. There’s no need to share with other campers or visit the communal restroom. You have privacy and functionality within your RV.
But, as with any house bathroom, problems can arise. Whether it’s a leak, a clog, or some other malfunction, you may find yourself needing to troubleshoot and fixing the toilet. RV toilets are not the same as your standard home toilet, so make sure you do your research, consult any manuals, and maybe ask an experienced RVer for advice.
Problem #1: The toilet is leaking.
First, you need to determine where the leak is coming from. Check to see if the water is dropping from the upper part of the toilet during the flush cycle, whether the bowl is full, and if there’s water just around the base of the toilet. Each of these symptoms means something different and requires a different response.
- A leak from the upper part of the toilet usually means the float seal in the vacuum breaker. Depending on the type of toilet, you can either buy a kit and replace the float seal or take everything apart to be cleaned. It may only be a dry and cracked toilet seal. If this is the cause, try moisturizing the seal with Vaseline before deciding if the seal needs to be replaced. This is something to do anyway as a preventative measure.
- If the RV toilet is leaking when the bowl is full of water, then check for cracks. This is more common with plastic toilets than porcelain toilets and usually occurs after winterization.
- Sometimes the leak may be coming from the floor at the base of the toilet, with a leak most noticeable after a flush. You may need to consider replacing the flange, which is wax or paper and rests between the toilet and the floor.
- A leak could be coming from the water connection behind the toilet as well. Check any connections to ensure they are tight.
Problem #2: The toilet is clogged.
This always seems to happen at an inconvenient time, so be prepared. One, make sure you have a flexible toilet tank wand with a high-pressure spray that can reach deep into the pipe and break up any clogs with a powerful blast. Some RVers have found that opening the toilet valve and pouring some pots of boiling water helps; let the water sit overnight. Alternatively, some RVers swear by the ice cube method in which There are some de-clogging chemicals Many clogs occur because the incorrect toilet paper is used. It’s important to purchase only toilet paper intended for use in RVs. Your standard grocery store bulk pack can end up causing problems, such as a clogged toilet. If you have kids, make sure someone didn’t drop something into the toilet that shouldn’t have been dropped in.
Problem #3: The toilet is running.
That sound isn’t music to anyone’s ears. A running toilet can spell T-R-O-U-B-L-E in a hurry if left unchecked. The bowl could overflow, causing water to overflow onto the floor of the camper and causing water damage. The main cause of a running toilet is the water valve, which is easy to replace if you determine first that it isn’t just simply stuck. You can check to see if the valve is stuck by doing a couple of forceful flushes, letting the pedal or lever to snap to close. If this doesn’t work, then you’ll have to check the springs on the pedal or that the lever mechanism isn’t getting stuck.
What if you need to purchase a brand-new toilet?
Let’s say a total replacement is necessary. How do you make a decision? Trailers and campers are more straightforward, while Class A motorhomes can be a little more complicated. What you need to know to make a decision: Does your current RV toilet use air to flush? Power to flush? Is it plastic or porcelain? How large is the waste hole? Camping style or residential style? A new toilet can come with a hefty price tag, but they are relatively easy to install so there shouldn’t be labor costs involved. RV dealers and service providers will be able to offer suggestions.
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