Sea glass resin

Sea glass resin DEFAULT

Introduction: Sea Glass Resin Tabletop


  • Sea glass, thin pebbles, sea shells, etc.
  • Glass top table
  • Mod Podge (or other glue that dries clear)
  • Masking or painters tape
  • Resin
  • Paintbrush

Step 1: Create a Lip

Remove the glass from the table and secure masking tape to the edges to create a lip. This will provide a frame for the sea glass and prevent the resin from seeping onto the table base.

Step 2: Adhere Sea Glass

Next I used Mod Podge to glue the sea glass to the table top. I started by going around the edges and then began to fill in the middle. I put the pieces as close together as possible.

Important: Give the table plenty of time to dry completely before moving onto the next step. The Mod Podge looked like it has dried but when I poured the resin I could see some of the glue through the sea glass and it never fully dried.

Step 3: Finish Off the Tabletop With Resin

Make sure to mix the resin to the specifications of the package (this is important or it will not set right). Pour the resin over the tabletop and use a paintbrush to spread it evenly over the glass. Let dry and then add your final resin layer. Remove the tape.

The round sea glass tabletop pictured was grouted. You can find a tutorial for that technique here.

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I really enjoyed making my resin coasters using unwanted glass chips and glitter  (see tutorial here).  You can embed many things in resin for jewelry as well as for home decor.  Back then, I could only find the silicone molds for coasters suitable for coffee and tea mugs and drinking glasses. This time, I wanted to make coasters big enough for beer mugs!

I had many sea shells saved from our Cuban holiday a few years ago and sea glass from Nova Scotia where we once lived.  I then envisaged a design which could perhaps evoke breaking surf.  I didn't have any beach sand but I did have some small polished river rock from the dollar store!!

I used Little Windows' Brilliant Resin which I like because of its long shelf-life, clarity and most importantly its low bubble producing properties. You can use other kinds like Ice Resin.  Art Resinis great but you will have to be prepared to use a torch  to remove the bubbles.

I also bought myself some silicone measuring cupsso I did not have to throw away plastic cups.  These are much larger in volume than the small cups you typically get from resin suppliers. Cleaning is easily done with some paper towels and rubbing alcohol from the local pharmacy.  Make sure you mark your desired levels on the cups with a marker pen because those cup markings are very hard to see once you pour the resin in. Or you can use kitchen scales if you have them.

The proportion for Brilliant Resin is 2:1 Parts A toPart B.  I mixed according to instructions. One great tip from Little Windows is to microwave briefly 6-7 seconds Part A before mixing. This really reduces the bubble formation.

Like my previous tutorial, I worked in layers. The first is a white layer which keeps the background the same for all the coasters. I did not want see-through designs.  So mixed up about 90 mls (60 ml : 30 mL, A: B) for the first batch.  I colored it with several drops of white resin pigment, mixing thoroughly for an opaque finish.  I have used white oil paint before in the past - takes longer to mix it all in.

I bought this silicone mousse panwhich was just the right size for larger coasters. Each round cavity was about 3 3/4 inch or just under 10 cm across. The sides were not tapered.  It was kind of floppy - not as rigid as other silicone molds I have used.  But it was the only one I found in the right size.

I placed the silicone mold on a plastic tray so I could move the filled mold safely.  I poured all the 90 mL of mixed resin into the 3 cavities.  You can see why I like this resin - no bubbles. Carefully pouring and the microwaving of Part A help too. If you encounter bubbles - which typically accumulates at the edges - pop them with a toothpick. I covered the mold and let the resin cure overnight.

I made another batch of clear resin and distributed it into the 3 cavities. Now the fun began. I placed the river pebbles and sea shells into the resin.

To simulate the surf, I used blue glitter gravel I bought from the craft section of my local dollar store.  Use glitter sparinglyif you cannot get this stuff.

The glitter gravel almost disappears in the resin - you just get little sparkles here and there. Just like how sunlight catches the glint of sand as the waves retreat.  Remember, I didn't have beach sand!  Note that sea glass loses its frosted appearance in resin because the resin fills all the little scratches in the glass.

I used a toothpick to adjust the different elements for their final placements. Notice this second layer of resin did not cover everything?  I prefer to do a total of 3 pours.  This way, I can better judge how much more resin will be needed.

I covered the second pour and let the resin cure overnight.  I made up the third and final batch of resin and carefully filled to the top of each mold.  A tip - always have other small projects ready on hand to use the leftover resin so nothing is wasted.

After another night of curing, the coasters are ready! Removing these from the silicone mold is easy! Just slowly peel them out of the mold.  All the coasters needed are small stick on protective pads- these are typically used to dampen noise when cabinet doors are shut.  I did not have to polish any of this. But with use, the coasters might need some so  I will use Flitz polish which I reviewed before.

Yup. They fit larger beer mugs and glasses!  Look how shiny they are!  Like glass and yet will not break if you drop them.  Have fun with this idea.

Before You Go:

This blog may contain affiliate links. I do receive a small fee for any products purchased through affiliate links. This goes towards the support of this blog and to provide resource information to readers. The opinions expressed are solely my own. They would be the same whether or not I receive any compensation.
Original Post by THE BEADING GEM
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Start by spraying the EasyCast jewelry mold with mold release.  (Be sure to shake the mold release well before use.)  Let the mold dry, then give the mold another coat of the mold release spray.  While it dries for the second time, you can create the resin mixture.

Carefully pour the resin into the jewelry mold.  Pour less than you think you will need.  It is better to have the mold slightly under-filled than to have it overflow.  I learned this the hard way and had to do some clean-up in between the mold cavities.  If you have a plastic syringe to transfer the resin to the mold, you will save yourself a bit of mess.

Let the resin sit for 20 minutes.  If after this amount of time there are still bubbles on the surface of the resin, you can pop them with a long handled lighter or small torch.   Just be careful not to melt the mold. Allow the resin to cure according to the package directions.

Remove the resin pieces from the mold by inverting the mold and pressing firmly in the center of each filled cavity.  This might take a bit of muscle depending on how well you prepped the mold with release spray.

Because real sea glass is translucent, not transparent, you will need to make the resin a bit cloudy.  Do this by rubbing the back side of each resin piece on 150 grit sandpaper to rough up the surface.  You can also use the sandpaper to remove any rough edges created by resin overflowing the mold.

After sanding, the back of the piece should look something like this.

Sanding the back of the resin creates a cloudy look to the front of the resin piece.  You can totally skip this step if you don’t have sandpaper on hand, but it really adds realism to the resin sea glass.

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